My first beer of the night comes to us from Lagunitas Brewing Co. in Sonoma County, CA. At first glance, setting up a brewery in the middle of wine country seems a bit like placing a tanning salon in an albino leper colony. But even surrounded by legions of grape-fondling juice jockeys, Lagunitas has managed to craft a very solid IPA in the Maximus.

My slow pour resulted in a very attractive reddish blond body, with a modestly fluffy head. Carbonation is on the low side, as expected for an IPA of this type. The aroma was a pleasant citrus and toffee mixture

Clocking in at a high-octane 7.5% ABV packed into the now-fashionable 22oz bottle, I expected all the subtlety of a swift ski boot kick to the junk. The first sip, however, was much more like cup-and-cough from that attractive 40-something female doctor, brisk and sharp at first, but with a warm and embarrassingly pleasant finish. The aftertaste was nutty, and a bit on the sweet side. Perhaps a bit too sweet to be a regular staple, but your tastes may vary.

All in all, the Lagunitas Maximus IPA is a highly enjoyable beer. Do yourself a favor and pick up a few, if you live within their distribution.